Garden Column for the Salisbury Post
Darrell Blackwelder
December 28, 2001
I've always enjoyed giving amaryllis bulbs for Christmas
presents. It was always the perfect gift for my in-laws. The
question I receive after the holidays is what do I do with this
bulb now? Can I save it for next season? The answer is yes, bulbs
can be saved for next year's holiday. I have saved amaryllis for
the past 3 years and all have rebloomed.
After the bloom fades, cut the flower and the stalk an inch
or so above the base of the bulb. Place the bulb in a sunny
location and water it through the winter as you would a normal
houseplant. Thick, glossy leaves soon develop which is very
important for the formation of new flowers for next seasons'
display. Some bulbs developed leaves as they flowed.
When the danger of frost is past, usually the last of April
or early May, bury the plant, pot and all in the flower garden.
Choose a protected location where light is filtered. Morning
sunshine is best for this plant. Afternoon sun tends to burn the
leaves. The leaves will grow fast and tend to flop over, but soon
become erect during the summer. Those that live in southeastern
part of the state canactually plant them permanently outdoors,
however, our climate tends to be too cold for most amaryllis
hybrids.
Continue watering and feeding the bulb with a complete
liquid fertilizer every two weeks. Proper fertilization
strengthens the bulb before going into dormancy. Under optimal
growing condions the bulb should increase in size during the
summer growing season.
Unearth the pot in September and bring pot and bulb indoors.
Place the bulb in a dark location for 6 to 8 weeks. The
leaves will then wilt and die. With a sharp knife, carefully
remove the leaves close to the bulb. The bulb should be stored in
a cool, dry location, approximately 5060 degrees Fahrenheit. A
cool basement is an excellent resting place for the bulb.
Do not water during the resting period.
After the resting stage, repot the bulb in a fresh soil. The
bulb may be too large for the previous pot. Plant the bulb in a
pot one size larger than previous pot. An ideal soil mixture
contains one part houseplant soil, one part peat moss and
one part vermiculite or perlite. All purpose potting soils are
acceptable. Place the bulb so that the top half is exposed. Firm
the soil around the bulb but don't pack too tightly.
Keep the soil moist and place in a sunny, but cool location
in the home, similar to locations for poinsettias. Ideal forcing
temperatures are between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the
soil evenly moist but not damp. Excessive temperatures
promote tall, weak, spindly growth. The flower stalk may flop
over when temperatures are too high.
Bulbs which fail to bloom usually do not have enough resting
time(dormancy). Excessive storage and forcing temperatures may
also affect the bloom initiation. Repeat the process after bloom.
Amaryllis bulbs are a delight during the holidays. Preparation for next season's bloom
is an easy task, but must be followed for success.
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Cooperative Extension is actively accepting applications
for the Spring 2002 Master Gardener Volunteer Program. The
program consists of 45 hours of classroom instruction on varied
aspects of urban and commercial horticulture. Classes for the
Master Gardener program begin on Thursday, January 23, 2002.
There are 15 classes tentatively scheduled to meet on Wednesday
afternoons each month from 100300 p.m. Applications for the 2002
Rowan County Master Gardener Volunteer program are due in the
Extension Office by 5:00 p.m., January 18, 2002.
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Darrell Blackwelder is an agricultural agent in charge of
horticulture with the North Carolina Cooperative Extension in
Rowan County. Visit the Master Gardener Website at
www.rowanmastergardener.com for addtional information and
previously published garden columns.