GARDEN COLUMN FOR THE SALISBURY POST
Darrell Blackwelder
October 3, 2001
If you haven't fertilized your lawn, there is still time left for fall fertilization. A few weeks ago I submitted an article on fall fertilization and for some it seems the information was a bit confusing. After all, when you shop for fertilizer, there are almost as many types and formulations as there are varieties of fescue.Some have asked me which fertilizer is best? The answer is that all of fertilizers will work; it really depends on quite a number of variables. The condition of your lawn, soil type, your soil test report, how much time you like to work in the yard, etc.
There is really no cookbook method of how to fertilize a lawn, but there are certainly guidelines. The most important guideline to remember is that research has proven that fescue and other cool season turf require about 3 pounds of actual nitrogen (N) per 1000 square feet during its growing season. The growing season is fall through late spring. Two pounds of actual nitrogen should be applied in the fall followed by one pound applied in the spring in February and March
A complete fertilizer with a ratio of 4-1-2 or 4-1-3 should be applied in the absence of a soil test. Turf fertilizers such as 16-4-8 or 31-3-9 are examples of turf fertilizers. Other turf fertilizer blends such as 18-24-12 or 11-22-6 contain extra phosphorus. Extra phosphorus is important in development of new lawns or thin lawns because of its ability to stimulate root growth.
Turf type or premium fertilizers come pre-packaged to fertilize 5 to 15 thousand square foot areas of turf. Premium turf fertilizers often more costly per unit since these contain slow release nutrients(coated nutrients). The advantage of this type of fertilizer is the ease of application and slower rate of growth. One application in the fall and another in the spring of turf grade fertilizer provides the recommended nutrients for cool season turf. Turf fertilizers can also be applied in split applications or in combination with other fertilizers.
Grade fertilizers such as 10-10-10 provide quick response with excessive growth. These fertilizers are less expensive providing nutrients over a short period of time. Grade fertilizers leach during heavy rains. Twenty pounds of 10-10-10 is needed to supply 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of turf. Those that elect to fertilize with a grade fertilizer often split applications in September and October. For example apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen in September (10 pounds of 10-10-10 per 1000 square feet) and 1 pound of actual nitrogen again in late October.
I always refer to 10-10-10 fertilizer because it is a common fertilizer and easy to use as a benchmark, but other grade fertilizer formulations such as 17-17-17, 19-19-19, 33-0-0 can also be used as lawn fertilizer; but at a lesser rate. The greater the nutrient percentage, the less is needed per 1000 square feet to supply recommended rates Unfortunately, many homeowners fertilize too heavy in the spring. Over fertilization with nitrogen in the spring promotes rapid, succulent growth, subjecting turf to fungal diseases such as brown patch and dollar spot. Only one pound of actual nitrogen should be applied in the spring. Never fertilize cool season turf after May 1. Core aerating is an excellent method of incorporating fertilizer into the turfs' root zone. The air space left by the plug also provides needed oxygen for the root system. Cool season turf needs to be fertilized correctly in the fall and spring.
Fertilizing fescue turf isn't rocket science. You can use various combinations of both grade fertilizers and slow release fertilizers on the market. I usually never follow the same fertilization scheme as in previous years and the results are very similar. However, the year I used organic fertilizers was the worst lawn for me. The key to producing a beautiful lawn is consistent fertilization in the fall and spring with recommended rates.