Garden
Column for the Salisbury Post
Darrell
Blackwelder
November
25, 2003
I’ve
always enjoyed giving amaryllis bulbs for Christmas presents.
It is always the perfect gift for my in-laws or for anyone that loves
plants. A large selection of bulbs is now available from local garden centers
and retail outlets.
The
question I always receive after the holidays is “What do I do with this bulb
now? Can I save it for next season?” The answer is yes; bulbs can be saved
for next year’s holiday. I have saved amaryllis for the past 3 years and all
have re-bloomed.
After
the bloom fades, cut the flower and the stalk an inch or so above the base of
the bulb. Place the bulb in a sunny location and water through the winter as
you would a normal houseplant.
Thick,
glossy leaves soon develop which is very for the formation of new flowers for
next seasons’ display. Some bulbs may have developed leaves as they
flowered.
When
the danger of frost is past, usually the last of April or early May, bury the
plant, pot and all in the flower garden. Choose a protected location where
light is filtered. Morning sunshine is best for this plant. Hot, afternoon sun
tends to burn the leaves. The leaves will grow fast and tend to flop over, but
become erect through the summer.
Continue
watering and feeding the bulb with a complete Liquid fertilizer every two
weeks. Proper fertilization strengthens the bulb before going into dormancy.
Under optimal growing conditions the bulb should increase in size during the
summer growing season. Unearth the pot in September and bring pot and bulb
indoors.
Place
the potted bulb in a dark location on its side for 6 to 8 weeks. The leaves
will then wilt and die. With a sharp knife, carefully remove the leaves close
to the bulb. The bulb should be stored in a cool, dry location, approximately
50-60 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool basement is an excellent resting place for
the bulb. Do not water the bulb during this resting period.
After
this period of rest, repot the bulb with fresh potting soil. The bulb may be
too large for the previous pot, so plant the bulb in a pot one size larger
than previous pot. An ideal soil mixture contains one part houseplant soil,
one part peat moss and one part vermiculite or perlite. All purpose potting
soils are acceptable. Place the bulb so that the top half is exposed. Firm the
soil around the bulb but don’t pack too tightly.
Keep
the soil moist and place in a sunny, but cool location in the home, similar to
locations for poinsettias. Ideal forcing temperatures are between 55 and 65
degrees Fahrenheit avoiding drafts and forced-air heating vents.
Keep
the soil evenly moist but not damp. Excessive temperatures promote tall, weak,
spindly growth. The flower stalk may flop over when temperatures are too high.
Bulbs that fail to bloom usually do not have enough resting time (dormancy). Excessive
storage and forcing temperatures may also affect the bloom initiation.
Repeat
the process after bloom. Amaryllis bulbs are a
delight during the
holidays. Next season’s bloom is easy to achieve if you follow a few simple
guidelines for winter forcing.