Garden Column for the Salisbury Post
Darrell Blackwelder
September 14, 2000

    Now is the to strongly consider seeding cool season fescue
lawns. The narrow window of opportunity during the fall promotes
active root growth and development. The optimum soil temperature
for root growth for fescue is 60 degrees, yet research has found
that roots will still actively grow when the soil temperature is
34 degrees! However, seeding now provides optimum growth before
the arrival of cold weather. Seed germination is slow during cold
weather, producing weak, thin turf.
    Constant bombardment by media and other sources tend to make
grass variety selection is somewhat of a dilemma for homeowners.
Over 50 cultivars of turf type fescues are available providing
more than an ample selection for homeowners. Retail outlets and
garden centers often narrow turf selections to 4 or 5 different
cultivars. Most seed companies are now selling fescue blends or
fescue/bluegrass mixtures in an effort to provide maximum seed
quality. Some garden centers will custom blend turf seed to
homeowner's needs-you can design your own blend.
    Try to plant a blend of turf type fescue. Turf type
fescues and blends such as Rebel, Falcon II, Confederate,
Envioroblend, Envioroshade and Plantation are just a few turf
varieties recommended over Kentucky 31 tall fescue. Blends of 3
or more different types of turf type fescue helps reduce the
spread of brown patch. Single cultivars plantings allow the
fungus to spread freely, whereas a mixture limits its spread.
    Shady areas should be seeded with blends that contain
bluegrass, creeping red fescue or hard fescues. Shade blends or
mixes do rather poorly in full sun. Bluegrass does well in the
shade, spreading by stolons. Turf type fescue and bluegrass
oddly enough coexist to form a dense well-matted lawn.
    Avoid planting blends that contain ryegrass. Annual and
perennial ryegrass are very competitive and weaken fescue stands.
These are often sold as "quick start" lawn seed. Check the
contents carefully before purchase.
    Apply fescue seed at 5-7 pounds per 1000 square feet (220
pounds per acre). Apply half the seed to a given area, then
apply the remainder of the seed at a right angle to the previous
application in an effort to guarantee thorough coverage.
Use half the normal seeding rate (3-4 lbs./1000 square feet)
when over-seeding thin or bare areas in existing turf. Core
aerating before over-seeding is beneficial, allowing the seed to
make contact with the soil improving germination.
    New lawns need to be plowed and raked to a depth of at least
6 inches to insure good seed penetration. Make sure lime and
fertilizer are tilled at least 4 inches deep in an effort to put
nutrients in the root zone of emerging grass seed. Simply
tossing grass seed on hard, untilled soil always ends as a
disaster.
    Apply clean, wheat straw as a mulch to cover bare ground
areas. I really want to emphasis clean wheat straw with no seed
heads. Germinating wheat in fescue lawns can be rather
unattrative and may compete with emerging fescue.
    Wheat straw mulch holds moisture, allowing seed to
germinate quickly. Gently shake one to two bales of straw per
1000 square feet. Be careful not to apply too much straw. After
application you should be able to see the bare ground through the
mulch. Over-mulching produces thin, weak stands of turf.
    Keep the soil moist for adequate germination. Water deeply
to prevent sparse, inadequate root development. Irrigation may
be needed two or three times per week during dry fall weather.
    Water less frequent when turf becomes established.
Fescue normally germinates in 14 days. As soil temperatures
begin to decline so does seed germination. Fescue germination
begins to slow down in late October, especially when hard frosts
occur. Seeding within the next few weeks is essential for
maximum turf growth.